For most of the house this method works wonderfully except for the top row.
Vinyl siding wall top piece.
Vinyl siding will expand and contract when the temperatures change.
Use zip tool to disengage top of siding from the course above.
Pull siding away from house and cut through the bottom edge with aviation snips.
Then slide the tool horizontally along the lock to release it.
The entire structure of vinyl siding is based on overlapping sections with the attachment point on each row of siding covered by the one above it.
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To prevent this from happening pull up on every piece until it snaps in.
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Slide the zip tool under the butt edge of the siding hook the locking edge and pull down.
Slot the vinyl siding into the lower siding and nail the top of the vinyl with 3d nails that match the color of the vinyl siding.
Draw a line on the wall along the top of each siding course before you pull the nails.
Lift up the course above and pull the nails holding siding to wall.
You will know when the siding is in.
If you nail it too tight it will buckle and crack.
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Then slide the tool horizontally along the lock to release it.
Draw a line on the wall along the top of each siding course before you pull the nails.
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Without an additional layer of siding to cover it as it touches the soffit.
Lift the unlocked siding to expose the nailing hem of the siding piece below.
Cut out the damaged piece of siding leaving a space 2 inches shorter than the replacement piece.
Because you cut away the channels at the top of the molding you must nail directly through the molding instead of placing the nails in the designated channels that you used in the rows below.
Lift the unlocked siding to expose the nailing hem of the siding piece below.
1 2 inch 1 3 cm plywood or osb are common substrates and these are generally covered with roofing felt or another moisture barrier prior to siding the walls.